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how would you put a piston in a galvanised tee? it was threads and it would be hard to sleeve it in further. also, how much can galvanised and galvanised fittings hold safely?

yes, galvanized steel or iron will hold a couple hundred psi ( i know that sch 40 galvanized iron will hold 300 psi) . to get the barrel to go into the tee you would need to use eather copper or pvc, i dont think you could use steel or iron, unless of course you have a lathe and a welder.

i thought of something. i could have a pvc barrel and male adaptor and if the adaptor hole is big enough, i can still put the barrle deep into the tee

or you could use the proper fitting, like a bushing and dremal out the stopper.

thats what i meant. thanks for the imput though. Im a little disapointed by not being able to have a full metal gun.

I have made a piston valve in galvanized iron, and it was really annoying. For one, the welded seem on the pipe which the piston was moving in was extremely annoying. Secondly, to get the barrel portion of the sealing part, I just screwed a pipe nipple in the wrong end of the bushing, and that was it. This worked, but it eventually broke down.

I am a bit of a perfectionist, and I disliked that project greatly because it looked awful. If you really want to do it, then go for it. I would greatly recommend copper though...

BTW, does anyone know whether a propane torch would be able to handle 1" copper pipe and fittings? I was having a small amount of trouble with propane and 3/4" pipe fittings, but I have the hang of it now. Would I need to upgrade to MAPP gas, or should propane work fine? Thanks

i can do copper because i cant solder and compression fittings are expensive. i like galvanised seel because its threaded

rmich732 wrote:I have made a piston valve in galvanized iron, and it was really annoying. For one, the welded seem on the pipe which the piston was moving in was extremely annoying. Secondly, to get the barrel portion of the sealing part, I just screwed a pipe nipple in the wrong end of the bushing, and that was it. This worked, but it eventually broke down.

I am a bit of a perfectionist, and I disliked that project greatly because it looked awful. If you really want to do it, then go for it. I would greatly recommend copper though...

BTW, does anyone know whether a propane torch would be able to handle 1" copper pipe and fittings? I was having a small amount of trouble with propane and 3/4" pipe fittings, but I have the hang of it now. Would I need to upgrade to MAPP gas, or should propane work fine? Thanks

If you heat the fitting and not the pipe it should work fine. It also depends on how you have the flame adjusted, the inner blue part should be 1/4" long, no longer.

BTW, does anyone know whether a propane torch would be able to handle 1" copper pipe and fittings? I was having a small amount of trouble with propane and 3/4" pipe fittings, but I have the hang of it now. Would I need to upgrade to MAPP gas, or should propane work fine? Thanks

Use MAPP on anything over 3/4", it works much better and is recomended by professional plumbers.

When I have made guns or roller sleeves from galvanized pipe, I have always honed the inside of the pipe to de-burr and get rid of the weld, when needed. You can use honing stones or a dremmel.

rmich732 wrote:BTW, does anyone know whether a propane torch would be able to handle 1" copper pipe and fittings? I was having a small amount of trouble with propane and 3/4" pipe fittings, but I have the hang of it now. Would I need to upgrade to MAPP gas, or should propane work fine? Thanks

You really shouldn't have any problems using propane on any size of copper pipe... I have sweat soldered just about every size available without problems...

The issue to consider isn't under-heating but over-heating... With proper cleaning, fluxing, and indirect heating, you shouldn't have any problems... MAPP gas will only increase the flame temperature beyond what you really need, unless you are looking to silver-solder or use brazing rod instead of standard sweat soldering...

It should be noted, however, that all propane torches are created equal... I have three different torch heads that I use depending on the specific task at hand...

rmich732 wrote:I have made a piston valve in galvanized iron, and it was really annoying. For one, the welded seem on the pipe which the piston was moving in was extremely annoying. Secondly, to get the barrel portion of the sealing part, I just screwed a pipe nipple in the wrong end of the bushing, and that was it. This worked, but it eventually broke down.

I am a bit of a perfectionist, and I disliked that project greatly because it looked awful. If you really want to do it, then go for it. I would greatly recommend copper though...

BTW, does anyone know whether a propane torch would be able to handle 1" copper pipe and fittings? I was having a small amount of trouble with propane and 3/4" pipe fittings, but I have the hang of it now. Would I need to upgrade to MAPP gas, or should propane work fine? Thanks

how would you get a threaded nipple to go all the wal through the tee? i cant find the part of you gun in witch the piston is moving in

how would you get a threaded nipple to go all the wal through the tee? i cant find the part of you gun in witch the piston is moving in

At a hardware store that threads pipe for their customers, as a service, they can do it for you. Of course you may want to pick your employee with care (someone who has helped you before and who seems like they can handle folks building cannons). Politely explain what you are doing and nicely ask them to thread your pipe longer. It is very possible to do, with a little extra effort on their part.

This topic might help you out, basically a how-to on metal piston valve tee cannons ; http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtop ... 95&start=0&

thanks man! just what i needed